How To Repair Scraped Plastic On Car

Fixing damaged plastic bumpers involves grinding, sanding, sculpting and painting. Merely it'due south worth the effort for repairs that would price less than your deductible.

In that location oughta be a law: If in that location'south a post in a parking lot—any post—it should be loftier enough to see when yous're backing upwards. Unfortunately, the law we usually see applied is Murphy's, and the resulting body-damage repairs will price merely a few dollars less than your insurance deductible. And that's precisely the scenario we were faced with subsequently trying to maneuver our trusty Honda Borough out of a tight space in a crowded mall parking lot.

A lot of people would offset try to practice what you lot shouldn't: Caput to the local auto parts store for some el cheapo body filler and a tin can of matching spray paint. Surprise! The technology of auto torso parts has changed—and yous'll need a completely different assortment of supplies to repair painted plastic parts than you would use to repair sheetmetal. Fortunately, there are a number of companies making repair and refinishing materials for plastic bumpers, as well every bit plastic fenders and door skins made from sheet molding compound.

Scuff, clean and prep expanse with plastic prep solvent to remove clay and oil, and promote adhesion.

Bumper Mechanics

Today, the actual "bumper" function of a front or rear bumper is invisible. The function of the machine'southward structure that's used for saving the vehicle's body from impairment is well hidden behind a fairly large semirigid piece of painted plastic. This plastic covering is designed to deflect and deform easily when bumped. The theory goes that you can come across it lightly and the plastic will pop dorsum into its original shape. All the same, really wallop it, peculiarly with a difficult or abrupt object, and the plastic will abrade, cutting or tear.

Various carmakers utilize different methods of attaching these plastic bumper covers. Because they are held in place with screws and tabs that fit into slots in the body sheetmetal, you lot may have to do some hunting effectually for all the fastening points of a typical fascia.

On our damaged Civic, for example, there were screws behind metal caps most the trunk latch, likewise as screws under the taillights and at the wheel wells. Once they were removed, nosotros were able to slide the bumper'south tabs off a number of slots in the rear quarter panels. Await for screws or bolts under the trunk rug between the wheel and the rear bumper. Y'all may also observe fasteners subconscious beneath or behind the bumper fascia.

Grind a "V" into the dorsum of panel to remove loose material and give more area for adhesion.

Fascia Facelift

You'll need a warm, dry place to work because the repair adhesives and fillers cure within a fairly narrow range of temperatures. If yous take the fascia off the car, y'all can work indoors—but not in the basement because these chemicals can give off some pretty noxious fumes. Read the labels advisedly.

Non all plastic bumpers are made from the same stuff. But with the fascia removed, it's easy to identify the type of plastic because it'south stamped into the dorsum side. Stamps of PP (polypropylene), PPO (polyphenylene oxide) and TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) indicate plastics that smear easily when ground or machine sanded. (Our Civic bumper is made of polypropylene.) Stamps of PUR (polyurethane plastic rigid) and TPUR (thermoplastic polyurethane elastomer) are plastics that powder when ground or sanded.

The type of filler you use to repair the bumper depends on the plastic blazon, and there are many different manufacturers. Consult with the counterman at the car paint store for the advisable products. While the specific make you use isn't critical, it is important that yous stay with that same brand throughout the unabridged repair to be sure the products are uniform.

Regardless of plastic type, prepping the fascia is the same: Begin by slightly scuffing the damaged area and cleaning it with plastic surface cleaner. If the bumper is cut or torn through completely, make sure to scrub the inner and outer surfaces. After rinsing and letting the surface dry, wipe the area with prep solvent. When wiping with this material, go in only one direction because going in two directions simply drags contaminants dorsum into the repair.

Thoroughly mix equal amounts of hardener and repair adhesive on a piece of paper-thin or newspaper.

After the solvent has dried, sand the area by hand with eighty-grit paper. Next, you'll demand to class a "Five" groove in the damaged area on the front and back sides of the fascia. The grooves allow you to align the two edges more than easily. They also provide more surface surface area for the repair textile to adhere to.

For plastic types that pulverization when sanded, cut the grooves with a 24-dust disc on a sander. For plastics that smear when sanded, brand the grooves using a cordless drill and a rotary file. This gives you lot greater control and slower speeds to reduce the risk of heat-generated smears.

Spread plastic filler over the repair. Don't slop information technology on heavily or you'll have more than work later.

Repair tears and cuts from the dorsum side of the fascia. If the cut or tear is big, y'all might have to align and so agree the edges of the repair with masking tape on the front of the fascia. Use self-stick fiberglass-repair tape to add structure to the cut or tear. Next, mix the adhesive and employ information technology over the tape with a body-filler duster. When the first layer of record is in identify, apply a second layer so the threads run at a 90-degree bending to the first layer.

Once the cloth has hardened (in about 20 minutes), move to the front of the fascia and remove any tape (if practical). Next, using 80-grit sandpaper, remove any textile that has squeezed through, and sand any spots that are above the finished level of the fascia. Make full the cut or tear and whatever low spots in the front of the fascia with the advisable repair material, and duster it level. After it has hardened, sand everything level, outset with lxxx-grit, so 120-grit, and then apply a light skim glaze of repair textile to make full pits and surface imperfections, and to restore the original contour. Then end sand with moisture 400-grit paper.

Sand and profile plastic body filler with 80- and 120-grit, then stop with 400-grit waterproof sandpaper on a safety block. It will probably take ii coats to restore contour properly.

PAINTING THE PLASTIC

When the repair is completed, apply two moisture coats of flexible office sealer. After drying for 30 minutes, the fascia is set for priming and painting. Again, read the labels and follow the maker's recommendations for operator safety—this stuff can be very toxic if inhaled. Modern primers and basecoat/clearcoat paints are flexible enough to accommodate plastic bumpers without peeling or loss of adhesion. Prime number the fender with two coats of any two-office primer-surfacer, making certain to allow the primer dry between coats. In one case the primer has hardened, dry out sand the repaired areas with 400-grit paper to level information technology and remove any imperfections.

Before spraying the bumper with basecoat, wetsand it and gently wipe the surface area with a tack rag to remove dust, and so spray according to the manufacturer's instructions. You lot may demand to repeat this process two or three times to cover completely. Once the basecoat is dry (usually about 30 minutes), mix the clearcoat with hardener. Utilize two medium clearcoats, allowing each to dry in betwixt.

Later drying overnight, the fascia is ready to be reinstalled. Once it'south in place, lightly wetsand the painted surface with 1500-dust paper to remove dust particles and surface paint imperfections. Avoid sanding through the paint past staying away from creases and seams. When done, dry the fender and look for shiny areas, which indicate that more sanding is needed. To bring out the luster of the paint, use rubbing chemical compound on the foam polishing pad of a rotary buffing motorcar, nevertheless avoiding creases and seams. Get the final sheen using a fresh foam pad and polishing compound.

Before spraying the bumper with basecoat, wetsand information technology and gently wipe the area with a tack rag to remove grit, and so spray according to the manufacturer'southward instructions. You may need to repeat this process ii or 3 times to cover completely.

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Source: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a650/2763656/

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